A Mass in Cambodia

Recently I had the opportunity of attending Mass (Novus Ordo, of course, in the Khmer language) in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Cambodia is a land of great and ancient culture, of recent horrors and, for most people, utter poverty. Yet there is a dignity and politeness – largely lost to us – characteristic of this people. For good and for ill, international tourism is growing.

The Catholic church is an open wooden structure located in a part of town remote from the hotels of the Westerners. There are basically no chairs but mats on the floor; shoes must be removed. There are other evidences of inculturation: the tabernacle has the form of a Buddhist temple and the statue of the Blessed Virgin Mary is crowned by the headgear of a Cambodian classical dancer ( I understand the tall single tall spire indicates a divine or royal personage). The Mass apparently starts whenever the congregation has assembled – it is necessary to wait for children coming in from villages. Nuns of various orders – including the sisters of Mother Theresa – are present.

There is much singing in the Khmer language – apparently both of hymns and of the propers. The extremely young congregation is reverent and attentive. The congregation remains seated on the mats for the Mass. At the consecration, however, all kneel – except for one Western woman who insisted on standing.

The ceremony itself? The Novus Ordo is hopeless in any language, but the form it takes here tends to exacerbate its weaknesses. Aside from the music and a couple of processions, the Mass was basically a dry series of texts read to the congregation with the priest kneeling or seated behind a low altar. It is a very minimalistic modern liturgy – strange in a country whose Buddhist and royal traditions are so rich in ritual, dance, colors and incense. Moreover, I was handed some English language materials, emanating from writers of the “American Catholic Church,” which were at times positively horrifying in their unbelief.

So, even this remote outpost of Catholicism is not immune from the ills afflicting the Church. Yet I went away impressed by the dignified demeanor and sincere piety of the worshippers.