In America’s Dairyland, a Glimpse of Rome

By Jill Chessman

If one is travelling in the Wisconsin area, it is worth it to visit the Shrine of Our Lady of Guadalupe in La Crosse. The shrine project was conceived by Raymond Cardinal Burke, while he was Bishop of La Crosse in the 1990s. Beginning with the ground breaking in 2001, Cardinal Burke oversaw its design and construction, which took place in the course of about a decade. Duncan Stroik is the architect.

It’s clear that the great Catholic basilicas of Rome are the inspiration behind the architectural form of the shrine. It is in fact remarkable and gratifying to look upon so beautiful a Catholic church built entirely in the 21st century.

The shrine interior, above, could be modeled after any number of Roman churches of the baroque period, with its central dome, arched ceiling, and symmetrical architraves and pilasters. Compare it to Sant’ Andrea della Valle, below.

In this view of the shrine’s nave, we see the attention to detail in the plaster work, gilding, and beautiful golden color palette, with no expenses spared.

The shrine’s baldacchino, above, directly imitates the baldacchino of Santa Maria Maggiore, below.

The stark front facade of the shrine does not come off nearly so well as the interior. But perhaps a baroque inspired facade will be added at a later time. We can think of beautiful simple American examples that might show the way, like the facade of Visitation Convent in Brooklyn (below), whose story we covered a few weeks ago (it has just been closed!).

Many of the side altars of the shrine are devoted to the recently canonized and beatified, such as St. Gianna Molla (above) and Blessed Miguel Pro (below). One can spot references to the Guadalupe story in some of the original paintings that grace these altars. The Madonna who looks down upon St. Gianna, for example, is dressed as Our Lady of Guadalupe. Behind Blessed Miguel at his martyrdom, we see him celebrating Mass, with an image of the Guadalupe tilma on his back.

In this painting of the 13th century St. Peregrine, an anachronistic stained glass window shows Our Lady of Guadalupe curing Juan Diego’s uncle. The theme of healing ties the featured saint to the Guadalupe story. (These three paintings are by Neilson Carlin)

The lush grounds are meant to be an important part of the pilgrimage. One must park a half mile distance from the shrine and walk up a hill that is punctuated with wayside statues. (An alternative is to ride up in a golf cart driven by a shrine volunteer.)

This Holy Family group tells the story of the shrine’s founding. The donors of the land for the shrine, Mr. and Mrs. Robert Swing, are shown kneeling while Cardinal Burke stands behind them.

On the outdoor Rosary walk, one spies another reference to the shrine. Our Lady and the Apostles receive the gift of the Holy Spirit within the shrine itself.

A group of students from the University of Wisconsin prayed the Rosary at the memorial to the unborn. The memorial provides a resting place for babies lost in misacrriage (below).

A separate chapel houses this tall tower of votive candles.

A visit to the shrine is a rewarding experience. One’s spiritual needs are met by a group of dedicated Norbertine priests who say Mass and hear confessions. Priests from a nearby oratory of the Institute of Christ the King also serve at the shrine. While most Masses on the schedule are Novus Ordo, a Traditional Mass is offered every Sunday. All Masses are said ad orientem and pilgrims are asked to receive Communion kneeling and on the tongue. At the Mass I attended, an a capella choir sang Gregorian chant. A spirit of silence and prayer prevaded in the shrine church and on the grounds. I was told that there are plans to build a retreat center, which will include overnight accommodations and will be staffed by religious sisters.