Fr. Markey on Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela

Fr. Greg Markey, pastor of St. Mary Church, Norwalk, is currently on a pilgrimage, walking the famous Camino a Santiago de Compostela. He is on a 40 day sabbatical, granted to him by Bishop Lori, after his first 10 years in the priesthood. He has chosen to spend his sabbatical walking the 500 mile road to Santiago de Compostela, planning to arrive at the famous shrine to St. James on his feast day, July 25. He is keeping his parishioners up-to-date with his progress through weekly reports, which are reproduced on the parish website. We post below an excerpt from his third installation. His account of his journey can be followed on http://www.stmarynorwalk.net/ (go to “From the Pastor”)

July 8, 2009
El Camino De Santiago – Part III

There are so many stories that I would like to tell but I there is not enough time. Furthermore I find that English cannot properly express all of the nuances of the Spanish language. Spanish is a language that is more expressive, speaking more with the heart, but I think you will get the point.

Earlier on the trip I was entering a village after a full day of walking and I began looking for the hostel. None of the them look the same, and some of them are in strange places. Perhaps it was because of the hot sun and the long day, but I wandered into this farmhouse where there were four scruffy men in their 60’s sitting and talking. I asked them if this was the hostel, and they laughed and said no. They saw my flag and asked if I was American doing the Camino. I answered, “Yes, thanks be to God.” One of them answered, “God? Bah! He has nothing to do with it.” It was clear that I was talking to non-believers.

After a few minutes of small talk they asked me if I wanted something to drink and I quickly answered yes. One said, “Do you want water or wine. We know that you priests like wine!”, and they all started to laugh. It was harmless enough and I laughed too. “I will take the water, thank you.”

One of them brought me a tall glass of cold water and I finished it. It tasted great. I said to him, “Surely you will not lose your reward in heaven for the water.” They immediately stopped talking. One of them looked at me intently and said, “What do you mean?” I answered, “Christ says in the Scriptures that anyone who gives even a glass of water to one of His disciples will not lose his reward in heaven.” They then began to argue among themselves, “Why does he get the reward? I help too…” They began to argue among themselves as to who would receive the reward and I just sat back and watched. The face of the man who gave me the water changed. He looked bright and happy, like a child. Finally they were all very helpful in directing me to the local hostel. I think the Lord wanted me to enter that farmhouse.

On day 12 I left Villafranca in Castille and Brother Ass was once again not cooperating. It was about an 8 mile walk to the next town of San Juan de Ortega, and the feet were full of blisters. While most people have 2 or 3 blisters, I had a dozen at this point. I had already switched out of my boots into sandals, but now there were other problems with the sandals. Every step over the rocky terrain was painful and had to be measured carefully. I was considering that perhaps the Camino was coming to a close for me.

I walked most of this journey with some of the very few Americans I have met, two ladies from Ohio. One these is a Spanish teacher, and we discussed Spanish history and language.

When we arrived into this sleepy village, I went into the church and knelt down to pray in this small stark gothic church. “Lord have mercy on me, a sinner.” I prayed my office and laudes, and felt a bit renewed. I returned to the cafe where many of the fellow travelers were for a cafe con leche.

As the day continued I had to climb a mountain peak, Cruciero. It was very rocky and Brother Ass was telling me that he did not think he could do another three weeks of this. I began to have doubts about finishing the Camino again. I had a long heart to heart conversation with the Lord asking the age old question, “Why am I suffering so much?” Every step had terrible pain in it. Why was I doing this Camino anyhow?

I was doing the Camino in honor of my ten years as a priest and I was hoping that it would be an opportunity to explore more closely the rich Catholic history of Spain. I looked forward to being away from the normal responsibilities of parish life, praying in their ancient churches, and peacefully walking through the hills of Spain. I knew that there would be sacrifices and I would offer it up to thank God for the blessings of these years, in reparation for my many failures as a priest, and for the current intentions of my ministry. Yet it had become more than I anticipated. For over a week now the Camino had become more an hourly test of endurance than an inspiration to my life, and I really did not know if I could finish it.

In reflecting deeper I realized that I also wanted to do the Camino to grow in faith. I wanted to purify my faith so that being Catholic would be for me more than a club to which I belonged, or a set of intellectual ideas to which I subscribed.

In his book, Introduction to Christianity, Pope Benedict writes: “Christianity is not a system of knowledge but a way….Christian belief offers truth as a way, and only by becoming a way has it become man’s truth. Truth as mere perception, as mere idea, remains bereft of force; it only becomes man’s truth as a way which makes a claim on him, which he can and must tread.” The Camino is this way.

How does this happen? Because on the Camino there are no more pretenses, and it wears everyone down, even to the point of revealing our hidden faults. For example the Pope writes that the current climate we live in has conditioned many of us to limit our ability to have faith, “…for the most part unconsciously.” How do we break through our strict self-reliance, the illusion that I am actually in control of my life? He answers, “(Man) can only be liberated by allowing himself to be liberated, and by ceasing to try to rely on himself.” If there is a powerful lesson on the Camino, it is that I am no longer in control, and just when I have no more strength, and no more options, He catches me, reminding me that He is ultimately in control.

When I arrived at the mountain peak there was a tall cross about 25 feet tall made out two tree trunks, held up by boulders. I walked a little further, and sat down to do midday prayer. I looked west and could see far off in the distance the historic city of Burgos. To visit the famous Cathedral of Burgos was for me one of the major hopes of this trip. At the end of reciting the psalms I peared out towards Burgos, and I felt an wonderful inspiration: Go to have Mass in Burgos today!

This was no easy suggestion. I had already completed 12 miles today, and the destination village for the day was at the base of the mountain, about 2 miles beyond. I did not know how many miles it was to Burgos, but at least another 8 or 9 miles. Nonetheless I had still not offered Mass, and yesterday I had to offer Mass in the hostel, which is somewhat restrictive. Tonight I would probably have to do the same, which was hard to bear. However, if I went to Burgos, I could have the evening Mass in one the most beautiful Cathedrals in all of Europe! The sun was not too hot, there was a cool breeze, and most importantly, my feet had stopped throbbing.

I then made a deal with Brother Ass: If you get me to Burgos today, I will give you the day off tomorrow. No walking tomorrow. It was a deal. After so many hours of being horribly self consumed, the thought of offering Mass in the Cathedral of Burgos tonight had changed everything. It was the most inspired I had felt on the Camino up to this point. I was joyful with the wind under my wings.