The Pilgrimage of Tradition – Chartres 2023

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This Pentecost weekend the Traditional Paris-Chartres pilgrimage takes place. This year we read of a record number of pilgrims – some 16,000 (excluding those who are not actually walking the pilgrimage trail). So many, in fact, that days ago registration needed to be closed (an unprecedented step!). Instead of one American chapter, this year there are several. Let us remember that, on this same weekend, the FSSPX leads a similar but smaller pilgrimage from Chartres to Paris.

For the Paris-Chartres Pilgrimage, these numbers would be extraordinary in ordinary times. But these times are not ordinary. For the Pope since 2021 has been conducting a war against the Catholic Traditionist movement. He seeks to exclude Traditionalists from the Catholic community – to isolate, humiliate and eventually eliminate them. As far as Pope Francis and his entourage are concerned, there can be no more talk of liturgical peace, of the coexistence of the old and new rites. Yet, despite it all, a greater number of pilgrims than ever are now undertaking this arduous journey.  

I myself have made this pilgrimage six times.1) In the early 1990’s the “Pilgrimage of Christendom” was a revelation for me: Solemn High Masses, encountering men like Michael Davies, Gary Potter, John Rao or Michael Matt, the magnificent concluding liturgy in Chartres Cathedral and above all the experience of living, singing and praying for three days among so many fellow traditionalists. 

As time went on some of the initial elan seemed to dissipate. The general structure of the pilgrimage exhibited remarkable continuity. But there were years where the number of participants stagnated, where instead of the earlier militant traditionalism with all its political ramifications efforts seemed to be more focused on securing good relations with the hierarchy, the papacy and even elements of the secular etablishment.  

By the early 2010’s these uncertainties of direction appeared to have been resolved. Perhaps this was attributable to Summorum Pontificum. By 2010-2012 the pilgrimage was more professionally managed than ever and was now welcomed in both Notre Dame de Paris and Chartres cathedrals (in the latter by the bishop himself). Bishops now celebrated the concluding liturgy in Chartres. As for the American contingent, what had once been a rather elderly group was now predominantly youthful like the vast majority of the European pilgrims. It seemed that a happy accommodation with the Church establishment had been finally achieved and a course of moderate growth by an upcoming generation assured. 

Then came Pope Francis, the Covid restrictions and Traditionis Custodes. The pilgrimage, however, survived it all and even flourished. After the Paris-Chartres pilgrimage had been suspended for two years, the local and regional chapters in France took to the streets instead. In 2022, the pilgrimage was resumed. Record numbers braved perhaps the worst weather any pilgrimage had ever experienced – but eventually battled their way through to their spiritual destination.2)

This weekend the largest group of pilgrims ever assembled begins its journey. Is the challenge of adversity needed to help the Traditionalists refocus on their roots, to rediscover what a precious gift they have been given in the Traditional liturgy? For once again the Pilgrimage of Our Lady of Christendom has become the calm, measured but militant public assertion of the Traditionalist cause. The pilgrimage has explicitly recommitted to the Traditional liturgy despite pressure from unnamed parties. The message is clear: Traditionalists are not going away! Moreover, the pilgrimage also remains absolutely committed to the restoration of “Christendom”: “the light of the Gospel projected on our countries, our families, our morality and our work.” (from the twitter account of Notre Dame de Chrétienté)

This year’s pilgrimage has attracted more attention than ever from the secular French media. And the masses at the opening and close of the pilgrimage will still be celebrated in St. Sulpice (substituting for Notre Dame de Paris during the latter’s reconstruction) and Chartres cathedral. 

I wish all the pilgrims well in the challenging yet rewarding days ahead! We will keep you in our prayers.

1. For complte coverage of several prior pilgrimages see: The 2010 Paris to Chartres Pilgrimage (last of a 4-Part Series) The Society of St Hugh of Cluny (5/31/2010); (The 2012 Chartres Pilgrimage – Conclusion (last of a 4-part report with photos) The Society of St Hugh of Cluny (6/1/ 2012)
2. “Numbers don’t Lie,” The Society of St. Hugh of Cluny (6/8/2022).